IV: Return of the Jeni: Sun Sets on Gringa

(South America 2003, IV)
Hello fans!

So, as tomorrow is the fourth and I begin my voyage home, this will be my final email to you all. The last week has been pretty great and there is lots to tell.
So after our Ecuador expeditions, we got the hell out of dodge (after a somewhat lengthy plane delay). We arrived in Lima, Peru only to find the crazy woman at the hostal we had called 6 times to confirm wasn't awake or open to receive us. We found shelter (the same location we are staying tonight) and got 5 hours of sleep before we awoke to go back to the airport. We also found that we have fleas (we think)! I like to think I have strong will power, but when two of the largest flea bites start itching in the middle of the night, I´d like to see even the most war hardened, prison camp surviving soul resist the temptation to scratch. There are many things that are blissful, but on the top of the list is scratching a penny sized flea bite. We made it in time to meet Kevin (Tina´s PDA intensive hubby for those who don't know). I must say he was a welcome addition to the group. I was complemented by a very efficient and toothless airport attendant saying I was pretty, and he hoped Kevin didn't mind him telling me so. As if Kevin was the most affected person by this comment. I fear airport attendant man may have been my knight in shining armor, but I guess I will never know. We flew out to Cusco from there. Cusco may be one of the coolest cities we have been in. While a little touristy, it is very safe and managable. Our hostal was nice, though I must admit I was a little disappointed (and thrown off) when I discovered our toilet had no seat. But I survived. We spent the first day making plans for the rest of the week, and did some serious shopping. They have some awesome deals and awesome wares in Cusco; I did not come away empty handed (though I am curious how all the shit I bought will get home with me). The following day we went to Machu Picchu. For those who are planning to travel abroad in the near future... GO THERE. It was great! Magnificent even. To think it was constructed so long ago and with none of the technologies of today....breathtaking. The next day we hung around Cusco, saw some creepy religous paintings in churchs, and some more local Incan ruins. We ate alpaca, which might be the best meat ever. We also saw a child, bum exposed, pissing in a gutter while being proped up by her mom. After our time in Cusco came to an end, we headed to Puno, which consisted of a 7 hour bus ride with no toilet! Now, those who know me, know my bladder and know that it doesn't hold much. Between my brain telling me I need to go, and the bumpy, half cracked asphault, half boulder road reminding me how much it hurts that I have to go, it wasn't a pleasant trip. In fact, I am fairly certain that I contracted herpes from one of the toilets at a bathroom stop that was made. This was accompanied by the old man who needed to read aloud to himself sitting behind me and the oujii board horror movie they showed in the dark. I was glad to arrive in Puno. Puno itself is on Lake Titicaca, so the following afternoon, we hoped on a boat and set out to the floating islands. They are these islands that are about 3 meters deep and are made of reeds and literally, they float. They were created by the Uros people to escape the Incas. At many points walking around these islands, I felt as though I would fall through. Another highlight of this trip was when we looked over at Kevin on the boat, and all these Peruvian people were having their picture taken with him. In fact throughout my time in Puno, and Peru in general, I found myself staring at the oddly dressed people (the women wear brightly colored skirts, top hats, long braids and carry their kids on their back). But as weird as I thought they looked, I apparently made an even weirder impression on the children who as they passed me holding their parent´s hand would stare and shout with glee ¨look! A gringa!¨. And I thought I blended in. I guess my blond hair, sun burn and fleece jacket gave me away. Or maybe my failing attempts to speak spanish. Anyway, we made our way back to Cusco (same bus, same bathroom situation, same level of enjoyment), stayed a night and headed to the airport today for Lima. Alas, disaster struck at the airport. Poor Kevin lost (or rather threw away) his ticket. Paper tickets are popular, and pricey, and he had to obtain a new one for a not so pleasant price. This included a trip to the airport police station to file a confused police report (confusion on both our part and the police officers). But we made it on the plane, made it to Lima, made it to our hostal and made it to the internet cafe!
So here is where I leave you friends. I hope you have had your fill. I will be home the 5th (Tues.) I am excited to return to many things. Consistently hot showers, drinking water from the faucet, being able to eat vegetable without a groan from my gut, no sleeping sacks, flushing toilet paper, toilet seats, and glorious, warm sleep. That is the short list. But I am also a little sad to leave my adventures behind. In entering the workforce, this may be one of the last times I can take a vacation of this length, so Im glad it was so great. I hope you enjoyed my adventures, and are convulsing and foaming at the mouth with jealousy!
Take Care Friends
Jenny

III. Thoughts on Roosters.

South American 2003, email III
AHhhh, yet another week concluded south of the border. And what a week it has been. I last left off in Chile, and I now find myself in Guayaquil, Ecuador. It is someplace alright....someplace.
So we arrived here earlier in the week and as usual fought through the gaunlet of taxi drivers offering their services. So aggressive. But we made it to our hostel. And I don't say that in passing. Making it to our hostel was an accomplishment. I swear to god, lane lines in Ecuador mean straddle them and don't look for any other cars around. Really, it is best for me to just close my eyes. Although that is when the nausea sets in. Also. They use the dollar here and things are so cheap! Food, internet, everything cheap! Good for us.
So we decided Guayaquil was a little to crazy for the likes of us gringas, so we set off to the beach. We took a bus to Jipijapa (pronounced hippie hapa) and then changed buses to Puerto Lopez. We checked into a lovely hostel on the beach, made some plans for the next couple of days and relaxed.
The next morn, we went whale watching. We took a boat out to Isla de la Plata, which is called such because either A.) Francis Drake hid some treasure there, or B.) In the moonlight, the coating of bird shit makes it look like silver. I believe the later because bird shit there was. We saw some pretty impressive whales on the way out, took a tour which included sun burn (even though it was overcast!), birds and the aforementioned shit and then had lunch,. On the return, I took a little snorkel. When we arrived back to the mainland, about 40 kids came running to the beach. They brought chairs and water with them...they wanted to wash our feet. Then I feel a little hand on my shirt. I turn and this little boy says "JENNY!" I had spoken with him earlier and apparently, unbeknownst to me, promised he could wash my feet. His name was Julio. He clung to me, I said, I hadn't understood him, he said I promised. And he was just so sweet... "Jennny, Por favor....sientate...." Other kids would latch to me asking the same thing and he'd push them off saying,"shes mine!" All the while Tina had been stung by something and I was trying to give her the key to our room. As I took the key out of my pocket, 10 cents fell out. Julio ran to it, grabbed it, handed it me, I said, "Keep it," and with that he scampered off onto the beach, never to be seen again.
The next day, we went horseback riding. Oh so beautiful, though I must say after three hours, there were certain unmentionable areas that were relatively sore. But I guess thats what you get. But we went by the beach, up into the mountains and along the river. Then we stopped at this gorgeous hotel for lunch. It was a fabulous day.
So I have never had many thoughts on roosters and foul in general. I was pretty indifferent, though I liked to eat them. I never knew much about them or wished them any ill will. After this trip, I can see how slaughtering chickens would be an easy thing to do. Every fucking morning at 4am, 5am, 6am, 7am, 8am, 9am...and all the interminant minutes, they would crow. Right outside our bedrrom. Its like going insane I imagine...they just never stop, and just when you think they have and you are begining to sleep...more crowing. If I had any kind of weapon on me, I would have killed them. Easliy. I thought when I left the hostel this morning, I would be rid of chickens and roosters for the rest of my life...at least for the next few months. But as I get on the bus to go to Guayaquil (a three hour ride) I hear clucking behind me. Then a child walks past me and there is more clucking. There were chickens on the bus with me. At first I thought, "How charming, I am really getting a slice of life in Ecuador...this is the real thing." But after we had a flat tire, there was rooster clucking in the seat behind me and a man spit orange seeds on my sandal clad feet (which is really what did it for me), I thought, I'm not sure I was cut out for the real life of Ecuador. It was something to see. But that's enough for me.

Aside from foul and bus rides, Ecuador has been good to me (and my wallet). The people are generally friendly and the food is good. The fruit is incredible. It was a week well spent.

I have written more than enough. This should be in installments. I head to Peru next. We go to Machu Picchu, Cuzco and Puno (Lake titicaca (insert joke about titi or caca here)). On Monday we pick up tina's man, kevin who is arriving from the states. I officially become third wheel.
Take Care buddies,
Jenny

II. That's Yenny Lynn to you!

South America 2003, email II

According to several Latinos, Yenny is my new first name, Lynn is my new last name. Sounds more like a porn star to me, but maybe that is why Im so popular here. Well my friends, its time for another update from your beloved. I have been having a great time since last writing you, and I hope to convey this great time in my email. so....

I am currently in the town of Vicuña. It is pleasant, the home of Gabriela Mistrals (the poet). We had a wonderful celebratory lunch for Tina's birthday and have enjoyed our few hours here. But before I tell how we got to this sleepy town, lets go back...back in time.

This past weekend was very relaxing. We spent most of it with my family in Chile. We were staying with my aunt, who was very hospitable, as well as spending time with cousins and Grandma. There probably isn't much I can say about them that would be super interesting to those of you who don't know them. The time with them was interesting in a super way.

So after many days in Santiago, we decided to get the hell out and see some sights of Chile. We decided to go to the North of Chile to the city of San Pedro de Atacama. It was a 20 hour trip via bus. But we splurged and got the salon cama, which has seats that pretty much turn into beds. They even serve meals. This makes it possible to over look their movie selection which includes but is not limited to such titles as Ernest rides again and Carriers. If you haven't heard of these movies, there is a good reason. San Pedro is in the middle of the desert, the driest desert in the world. San Pedro may be one of the coolest towns I have ever been in. They haven't discovered (or if discovered, haven't chosen to utilize) pavement or blacktop of any kind. Everything is dirt, clay, and dust. The houses are all adobe style and awesome. Our hostel was nice, although the 24 hours of hot water was a lie. It is a hippie town with charming restaurants with fires and music everywhere. From this town, we took two tours. The first left at 4am and took us to see the sunrise in the Geysers of Tatio. Awesome but fucking cold. Im serious. Like Chicago in the dead of winter cold. But as soon as the sun rose, it was sweatshirt weather. Before sunrise, it was cold, like 0 degrees Farenheit cold. But the steam from the geysers and the sun was a beautiful expereince. Then we took a tour of Moon Valley or Valle de la Luna. Also very cool. We walked around some other desert mountains before ending up in the Valle de la Luna for sunset. While the sunset wasn't much, the color it created on the mountains was beautiful. After that we got to plunge down the sand dune type thing to our van. Let me say they don't have many roads (any roads) to these places and these mini vans weren't made for off roading, so my ass was sore.

Yesterday we hoped on a bus ( not salon cama this time, semi cama, which is much cheaper and much lesss comfortable, but with the same movie selection). We ended up in La serena this morning. We also ended up with sore throats and colds from either a. inhaling around 3 tons of dust, b. being contaminated by sick cousin, or c. being contaminated by sars infected bus travelers. Tylenol cold has solved most problems. We quickly rented a car and headed east. What is East of La serena you might ask. Well, Cerro Tololo is east of La Serena. It is an observatory about 80 km east. The view from the top was beautiful, and we met some chilean high schoolers who were on a field trip. They all kissed and sang to Tina for her birthday. At least she had some suprises. Then we drove up this super windy dirt road sans guard rails. Thankfully, there weren't many cars. One thing we did learn from this trip, don't tell people you are Canadian if you need to show your US passport.

And that brings us to Vicuña, 15 km east of Tololo. We drive back to La serena tonight and then leave at 1130p (or 23:30) for Santiago, arriving at 6 or 7a. I think sleep shouldn't be a problem. On Monday we leave for Ecuador where we will be meeting family members (that I don't know), whales and horses. I can't wait. Thank you to all of you who wrote me emails. They made me feel so loved. Keep it up. And for those of you who didn't write...well, you've broken my heart and you'll get your comeuppance. But you still have to weeks to rectify the problem. I miss you all, but can't say Im ready to come home just yet...well see after the malaria or yellow fever kicks in.
Take Care
Yenny

I. South American Fun

Hello Friends!°
First off if you are getting this email, your name has somehow made it onto my group list for travel updates. If you don´t want to receive these updates, delete them, you´re not going to be taken off the list. I must give the obligatory apology for sending group emails. But I know how much you are all missing me, and dying to hear about my adventures, and I just wouldn´t want anyone to miss any details. So I hope you enjoy vicariously through me.

I am in Santiago in Chile right now. Tina (my travel companion) and I arrived early this morning and were shuttled to my aunt´s apartment. I have to say, we are living the life of luxury here. For those who know my family, this is my dad´s side, so the eating will obviously be good. The room I am in has maybe one of the most beautiful views I have ever seen. The Andes Mountains look like they are about 100 yards in front of me.

Before Santiago, we were in Costa Rica. We did not see much of the country, but what we did see was gorgeous. San Jose was just so-so, but admittedly we did not explore much of it. We did however take a bus to the beach town of Jaco. The bus was nice except for the vomiting children, but perhaps that is part of the experience. In Jaco, we did a canopy tour. I dare say that this may have been the hightlight of the trip. There are these platforms built high up in the trees in the forest, and there are zip cords connecting them. Then you attach yourself to the zip cord and weeeeeeeeeeeee there you are. It was awesome. Really. Awe-some. I was filled with awe. You can see trees below you, waterfalls, ocean and mountains. It was incredible. Unfortunately, my compatriate lost her camera midway through one of the zip lines...we are still have hope it will be recovered. We then went to the beach. Now, I understand Costa Rica is a warm country. And I understand that I have very very white skin. But is it so wrong of me to want to get a little color, be less of an albino? Apparently yes because I am pretty damn sunburnt right now. I re-applied several times, but god forbid I look like a normal human being for once. The highlights of the sunburn are the purple color on my back and red strip down my forehead ( apparently I can´t apply evenly either). But I will survive. And with Santiago´s golorious 50 degree climate, I should have some time to recover.

So those are the goings on so far. I am having a super time and can´t wait to do more. Future trips include, but are not limited to, the desert and salt flats of Chile in the north, whale watching in Ecuador, Machu Picchu and Lake Titicaca in Peru. Im pumped.

Take Care friends, I hope to hear from you sooner than later!
Jenny, traveler extrodinaire

Re-living the past can be fun.

I have thought a little bit about retroactive postings. I still don't know how I feel about it. On the one hand, who wants to read about things that have happened to me in the past. Probably those of you who are reading this have already heard about the anything worthy of noting again. On the other hand, I like re-thinking these experiences, so you should too. I have emails that I sent to a group of people on my experiences in South America in the summer of 2003. I have ben saving these emails for over a year and I'd like to have a place to display them. So, if you already received these emails once, you can wait for the next couple of postings. Otherwise, I think the following emails (one post for each email (I, II, III, IV)) sum up my trip quite well. So now think back.... back in time to the summer of 2003...of 2003...2003...

The end is near. . .

So as the year 2004 draws to a close, so to does the project I have been working for the past year. It has been wonderful. I have learned quiet a bit, but more importantly, I have made some truly cool friends. We had our last meeting/party today. We watched Rudolph the Red Nose Reindeer, ate indian food, and pigged out on dessert. There were samosas, red velvet cake, and jewel brand cake cookies. What more could a fat girl ask for. I will miss everyone but Anneeth because apparently blogging was SO last year. Whatever. Stacey is on to bigger and better things, Lara is moving to my former school district U-46, Jackie...well, jackie will still be around as will Kevin... and Nik...and Tom...and Nitima (Damn people, leave already. You are making my farewell less heart-wrenching). It is nice to know I will still have a job. Anyway, Project 1 staff, I will miss you all, but since I know you have grown attached to me like a tick is attached to a dog (yes I am a dog in this equation, but at least I am not a tick, suckers!) I am expecting many phone calls. I'll be waiting.

Welcome to my world! MWAHH 

Today I become a real woman.

My first blog. Like baby's first blanket, it is something I will run to for comfort, grip for my dear life, and occasionally, I will blow my nose in it. Oh the solace it shall bring. Since my friends all started "blogging( I put it in parenthasis because I think it is a stupid word. I will come up with a new one one day. )," I have contemplated what I would put in my own blog. I have a few ideas. Hopefully, people will read my blog. I have not always been a dutifull blog reader of my friend's and boyfriend's blogs (jascha, nemo, anyone else who might have a blog) but I will now make a concerted effort to try because I want them to read mine. Actually, it is due to the kindness of Jascha (for those of you who don't know Jascha = boyfriend) that I have this little space to write. I must thank him for remembering this is what I wanted so much! I promise to only ever say nice things about him here. So my first posting has been launched. I'm sure I will come to regret that I didn't make more of it. But in my life I have found it is never a good idea to start too strong. It only leads to disappointment down the road. This way, I have no where to go but up, up, up!